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I mean look at these Invictas. They're clearly intended as objects of rebellion designs meant to challenge our very comprehension on what a watch can be. Just as the Joker has to paint his face in order to transform from a human to a supervillain Invicta has stretched the definition of a wristwatch to its limit in order to transform it into the face of a clown.

Each of these watches carries forward the same case and applied-marker dial design as previous iterations are sized at 41mm with a 13.1mm thickness and is operated by the IWC Manufacture Caliber 69355 with 46 hours of power reserve. These models will be joining the regular collection.

I've found the pyramid dial to be the rarest of the six types, only seen in the last batches of cases (beginning with serial 911,xxx and 942,xxx). The two types of stelline dials seem to be the most common, found in nearly half of the 6062s surveyed. Explorer dials are typically found in stainless steel examples, though a few have appeared in gold cases (including three pink gold examples we'll take about more).

Last year was the most watches we've ever done, but this year we're slowing down a bit, he says. "I don't want to do too much; I'd rather do more interesting designs, instead. So we'll keep the production number slightly below 10,000 for now. I think that's a good number for the brand."

Measured on my timegrapher in six positions with the chronograph running, this movement ran at plus-three seconds per day, squarely within COSC tolerances. So, as we bring the reality of the ETA-based movement up against the $5,000 price tag, it would be too easy to dismiss the caliber B130 if we didn't understand what's under the proverbial hood. I submit that the B130 delivers quite a bit of mechanical oomph – literally and figuratively.

On the flip side of that, though, these watches will most likely be purchased predominately for or by women, and it's cool to see AP invest in putting mechanical movements in these pieces. More and more women are getting into the watch world, and hopefully the days of brands throwing quartz movements in diamond-covered watches and calling it a day are behind us.

Here, we share for the first time the story of famed race car driver Carroll Shelby (1923–2012) and the Patek Philippe pink gold chronograph ref. 1463 he was awarded in 1959 – a trophy for winning the 24 Hours of Le Mans, with co-driver Roy Salvadori, in an Aston Martin DBR1. Winning this race was the highlight of Shelby's racing career. And the fact that a Patek chronograph, not a Rolex, was given as a prize for the ultimate car race? This rewrites watch history.

The modern version of the Explorer II, like most Rolex watches, has changed both a lot since it was first introduced, and almost not at all; the fixed 24-hour bezel, with its black engraved numerals, and the prominent 24-hour hand are recognizably and directly descended from the original. What Rolex doesn't do, and apparently never will do, are reproductions or re-editions of vintage models – a stock in trade for many brands but not for the Crown.

This collaboration seems like a good sign that Audemars Piguet have zero intention of dialing down their efforts to maintain a foothold in the pop-culture hemisphere. And I pray that it remains this way for 2024. You have to give credit to AP for recognizing that it's not really about advertising these days. In 2023 it's all about brands that have a genuine community around them, a genuine community that can serve as an aspirational springboard for those so called subcultures.

The first watch I ever saw under embargo was the 2019 release of the original steel Odysseus. A passionate watch enthusiast, I was hired by an unnamed outlet to photograph the new piece – something I'd never done before – and despite my excitement, it went exactly as terribly as you could imagine. Lange graciously gave me another shot with a brand-new Odysseus at Watches & Wonders and boy, is it a doozy.

The Swatch Group reinforced that point in a summary of the impact of the pandemic on its sales and operations. The crisis began, it said, with a "severe weakening in China in the last week of January.

Prices are in the low three-figure range. I myself am eyeing the GA2100, a.k.a. the CasiOak, which may just be the best-looking execution to date of this fairly new reference. I also think the transparent DW5600, a classic virtually guaranteed to register with longtime G-Shock lovers, is going to generate a ton of interest. I mean, clearly.

If you had asked me to guess how Lange would celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Datograph, this wouldn't have been particularly high on my list. I would have thought there might be a brand new Datograph movement for the moment. But looking at the new Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lume, I'm not complaining. I distinctly remember the first time I saw a Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon. It's an experience that really sticks with you.

The decline, the FH notes, "reflects more the disruption and stark overall reduction in movements of goods than a real change in demand. Swiss watch exports began to fall sharply in March and then came to a halt in April and May."

Brand: Laurent FerrierModel: Classic Auto SandstoneReference Number: LCF046.AC.B2G1Diameter: 40mmThickness: 11.94mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: Lacquered in coppery shadesIndexes: 18k white goldLume: NoWater Resistance: 30 metersStrap/Bracelet: Dark brown calf leather with tone-on-tone Alcantara lining

The Amazing Bulova Computron: The Time At The Push Of A Button! Case, 31mm square up top, widening to 31mm x 41.50mm at the bottom; thickness, 13.80mm from the caseback to the highest point of the case. Backlit LED display in blue (chrome model) or red (gold ion plated or black ion plated models) with mineral crystal; 30mm water resistance. All models stainless steel with either silver-tone, gold-tone, or black cases. Find out more at Bulova .

On wrist and over several days, I found this loaner Supernova to run about +2-3 seconds a day and the movement's design and finishing can be easily enjoyed through the Supernova's display caseback. I'm normally indifferent to display case backs, but if I'm specifically paying for the movement, I'd like to be able to see it.

And then, to make it more interesting, I'm going to have a real-life expert tell me if I am indeed the fine watch collector I fancy myself to be – or if I'm just a philistine who's down a theoretical 100k and has nothing but a pile of junk to show for it.

Loosely based on the Frankfurt Financial District series of dress chronographs, Sinn souped up the 3006 with some additional sporty elements, as well. There's a screw-down crown and the chronograph pushers are protected through Sinn's proprietary D3 system that eliminates internal tube inserts and allows for up to 200 meters of water resistance; the pushers can also be used underwater. Oh, and it has drilled lugs. Because every true tool watch has to have drilled lugs, right?

Caliber: 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24HFunctions: travel time display of two time zones, annual calendar with moonphaseDiameter: 31.74 mmThickness: 5.6 mm (2.6 mm for the base movement, 3 mm for the Annual Calendar and Travel Time module)Power Reserve: 48 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 28,800 mphJewels: 47

Now in its 14th year, the "High Jewellery" program from Hublot has fostered the creation of some 30 unique models, and this one-of-one example carries a price tag of $685,000. I can't imagine what it weighs, but many years ago, I was able to briefly handle the hilarious Jacob & Co "Billionaire Watch" (not sure about the name, it only cost like $18,000,000), and I can report that it's not the sort of watch that you'll forget you're wearing, what with all of the armed guards.

Does that mean I'm now more forgiving towards watches? I don't think so. There are a lot of ways to evaluate the success of a product, and I didn't make it through grueling design and typography crits in college only to give a free pass on objective issues. But at the same time, I think the context of what the watch is trying to accomplish is so important and often gets pushed to the wayside by an over-homogenization of taste on the internet. Let's save more of that take for another article.

But then, I got to wondering about the man behind the engraving. Had Lt. G.C. Fullenkamp been drafted? Was this a watch gifted to him from his work buddies to send him off to war? More importantly, did he ever get the chance to come back home?

But I do swim a lot in fresh water – and I swim late into the season, without a wetsuit – and so I thought maybe I'd try a skin diver. Something reliably, though not record-breakingly, water resistant. I would use the dive bezel as an indicator that told me, in essence: "You've swum 10 minutes into the lake, and it's at least 10 minutes back. So in the interest of not getting hypothermia, it's best to turn around."

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Brand: Moritz GrossmannModel: UniversalzeuitReference Number: MG-003072Diameter: 44.5mmThickness: 13.78mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: Solid silverIndexes: Painted and printedCrystal: Sapphire crystal, antireflective coating on one sideStrap/Bracelet: Hand-stitched alligator leather with prong buckle in stainless steel

The collection belongs to an Australian expat named Andy Tolley. Andy's the kind of collector who's happy enjoying his watches in solitude. Truth be told, it took some convincing to get him on camera with me. He doesn't like social media and doesn't want to be known for having watches, but rather for researching watches and spreading the enthusiasm around them through his website Flight Birds. So we're especially grateful he made an exception for HODINKEE.

The growing importance of personalization of branded items is also reflected in the emergence of new conflicts dividing brand owners from companies modifying goods bearing the original brand of third parties, the Court writes.

For most watches, prices aren't going to rise this year like they did the last few years. With that, people won't feel the need to "chase trends" – there's time to slow down, take a breath, and consider what watches are actually interesting to you, not what's interesting to me or Kevin Hart or that guy at the meetup you kind of want to make jealous but don't want to admit it.

Caliber: Zenith El Primero 9004Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, 1/100th of a second chronograph (central chronograph hand makes one turn each second), power reserveDiameter: 32.80mmPower Reserve: 50 hours for standard timekeeping; 50 minutes for chronographWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 5 Hz for standard timekeeping; 50 Hz for chronographJewels: 53Chronometer Certified: Yes, by TimeLab

In the early '90s, Citizen updated the Aqualand with the ref. JP2000. It looked almost identical, but was improved with the added functionality of dive alarms for max depth and rapid ascent, plus memory for more logged dives. It also went to a screw-on round caseback and a single battery. If you’re seeking the look of the original Aqualand, the JP2000 is the one to look for nowadays, unless you’re a hardcore collector or purist.

Over the course of its five years in production, from 1955 through 1959, the 6542 used a 38mm Oyster case and three different automatic GMT-Master movements. First, there was the cal. 1036, then the 1065, and finally the 1066.

The last time I saw this watch, the individual offering it was taking delivery, while at a collector's get-together in the pre-pandemic era. Being that sort of event, the watch quickly ended up in my hands, and being the earliest variant of Favre Leuba's Deep Blue, it quickly wowed me. With curved dial script and a small application of text indicating the use of radium luminous compound, it's most definitely a first-execution example of the Ref. 59603, and a good looking one at that.

Why It's Collectable: Anything Concorde is collectable, simply because it represents a time in commercial aviation that will never happen again. The Concorde traveled from New York to Paris or London in less time than it takes to commute into New York City from New Jersey during rush hour. To collect Concorde memorabilia is to respect and admire the time when humankind employed technology in a remarkable way. It was the pinnacle of commercial air travel.

We covered the LM Sequential EVO extensively when it came out. The watch had five pushers, two independent yet integrated chronographs, and a sporty orange and black or just plain black look. The chronographs could be run separately, simultaneously, or have their functions inverted (starting one and instantly stopping the other) with the pusher at nine o'clock. It was incredible.

The tale of the tape will tell you that Phillips continued its market-leading position, with a total sale of CHF 35.9 million (about $39.7 million) and five watches selling for more than CHF 1 million. Even with a still-down website, Christie's hobbled to CHF 22.8 million, while Sotheby's moved CHF 11 million (with another few million still to close from its online sale).

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Cradling the watch in his hands, my dad told me that it had been a gift from his parents when he graduated from Glendon College in 1974. My Grandfather, Ernie Stacey, was the Fire Chief for Oshawa, Ontario, from 1967 to 1982, and – not unlike his son – enjoyed a select few luxuries outside of supporting his own large family.

While he most certainly has the means for all manner of luxury watches, he opts for a timepiece more fitting for a rumpled professor. That would be a Mickey Mouse watch, complete with moving arms that tell the time. (Happy now, Jack?)

Brand: TudorModel: Black Bay GMTReference Number: Reference M79830RBDiameter: 41mmThickness: 14.5mmCase Material: Stainless steelDial Color: OpalineLume: Super-LuminovaWater Resistance: 200 metersStrap/Bracelet: Stainless steel bracelet or Tudor jacquard strap

I started actively watching the online auction countdown when there were about 10 minutes to go; at that point, the bid was set at CHF 350,000. It jumped in CHF 50,000 increments twice, at about six and then at four minutes remaining. Finally, with about eight seconds left on the clock and the bid sitting at CHF 450,00, a buzzer-beating bid came through: the Royal Oak prototype sketch ended up all-in at CHF 564,500.

Skipping from the 1950s to the turn of the 21st century, the reference 5022 represents an entirely different era of Patek Philippe design. I like to call this "weird Patek." In the 1990s and early 2000s, the brand introduced some beautifully strange watches – they either speak to you or they don't. I happen to really like models like the reference 5085 Neptune and the reference 5110 Gondolo but they're not for everyone!

Rolex filed a trademark for the Space-Dweller name in 1968, which indicates the name's first use was in 1967. Rolex applied for the trademark in Switzerland in 1966. According to Watchistry, who kindly lent us this watch, the Space-Dweller case numbers he is aware of date from 1963 and 1968. One would have to question the originality of a Space-Dweller dial in a 1963 case, given the dating of the trademark application records.

You have to really understand the brand. Timex covers so many different levels of taste. It can be quite an exercise trying to reach all different countries and so many different perspectives. It's one of the things I look at when I work on a project at Timex with a new partner. You have to maintain a level of authenticity of the American brand and of the history but also see what new people you can reach. It's a small world.

Picking the Mk1 as the base for a collaboration is a pretty surefire way to find some success – quartz-powered, 40mm, military-inspired style. The Mk1 is like bellying up to the bar and ordering one field watch, neat. This latest Todd Snyder collab is that same field watch, with a twist.

The somewhat smoky finish of the case is matched by a charcoal dial with brighter silver-tone subdials and red accents. Again matching the stealthy vibe of the case, the Monaco 2009-2019's markers and hands are plated in black gold and the date display at six features a white-on-black execution.

Okay, seriously. Gather 'round, children, and hear the tale of watchmaker Abraham Louis Breguet: Swiss-born, did biz in France with the aristos before and after the French Revolution, and invented more stuff before breakfast than most other watchmakers could in a lifetime (he made what was at the time the most complicated watch in the world, for Marie Antoinette, which she was unable to collect when it was finally finished, on account of by then having no head).

We cannot serve everybody immediately because it takes time to accelerate production, Terreni said, when asked about the recent demand. "It takes longer than accelerating or activating a desire. But we will serve the orders that we have, because I don't want a brand that is artificially in scarcity as a strategy. I would love to please everybody who wants to enjoy Parmigiani."

The moon phase accuracy came thanks to a supercomputer that tested 22 trillion combinations of gear ratios and layouts that arrived at that 45–plus million-year accuracy. IWC had a number of solutions at the end of the day, thanks to the supercomputer, but picked this one, leaving the door open for potentially other innovations or variations on the Eternal Calendar.

There are essentially two separate chronograph mechanisms – one for the tenth-of-a-second mechanism, and the other for the standard, center seconds counter and instantaneous jumping minute counter. The entire 1/10 second mechanism is carried on the clutch lever and both the base system and 1/10 system are traditional, lateral clutch chronographs.

For ease of translation and clarity, I submitted questions ahead of time. Some of these answers were delivered to me in printed form, handed over by Mr. Naito as he asked, "Now, what do you really want to know?" Some of these are written responses. Others were off-the-cuff. The interview has been edited for length and clarity.

My love of MB&amp;F has grown as well, and I jump to write about any of their new releases. For how wild (and yes, oddly shaped, as pointed out in the comments of one of our recent stories) some of the releases are for my generally traditional taste, I would love to own one of Busser's watches with the giant floating balance.

The seconds hand adds a pop of color, though it still blends in with the overall blue vibe of the watch's design language. It, too, has a special significance, meant to pay homage to "the district’s history with Komparu, a traditional Japanese color named after Komparu Street, where Ginza's nightlife was once centered."

Time only, classic case shape, snowflake hands, and not a flaw to be seen. Tudor has emerged from the shadow of Rolex this past decade to produce some of the most popular watches in the world. The Black Bay 41 was launched in 2017 as part of the ever-expanding Black Bay line. It's a simple design meant to be the watch that can go to a more formal event or a day at the beach. With 150m of water resistance and the legendary ETA 2824 movement inside, this is not a watch that needs to be babied.

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Most people reflexively glance at the space where the dial usually is, so adjusting to the "driver" design takes some time. But, feeling like I still needed to share the watch with folks, I put it on my right wrist. That's how I learned that the rotor "spins" more easily on the right hand. There is a technique to making the watch do the "fidget spin," but it's up to you to figure it out. When you do, it makes a lot of sense.

As I explained in the article about the best IWC watches of the 1990s, they were asked by IWC's Gunther Blumlein to help develop a modern minute repeater for the brand and integrate it into the IWC Grande Complication.

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