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After zoning out in the presentation room I finally came to and heard a faint voice in the distance of my mind "Would you like to take it home for the weekend for review" I'll let you guess how I responded to this 26800 question.

In the past few years we've seen quite a few watches that aim to translate strong design languages from high-end watchmakers into models that are an order of magnitude more affordable than their inspirations. Just earlier this month the Grönefeld brothers presented that concept with their own line of watches and the MBampF-descendent M.A.D.Editions has certainly been the center of conversation for a few years now. Hell I'd argue that even the MoonSwatch fits into this idea.

True to vintage form this watch features lug holes in the case which allow for easy strap changes. What's more the bracelet one of two configurations for the watch features an easy-release trigger system allowing you to remove the bracelet in mere seconds. The tropic strap however must be removed and put on the old fashioned way.

It's been 25 years since the release of the first Grand Seiko 9S caliber and to celebrate, the brand has announced two new GMTs to suit a variety of needs from Grand Seiko fans. With the SBGJ275 and SBGM253, Grand Seiko is covering a lot of ground. Let's start with the sportier option.

Originally published in May 2015 and complete with a full video and plenty of photos, this post covers special entry into two of Seiko's manufacturing locations as well as a look at the brand's museum in Tokyo. From Grand Seiko to Astron, Credor, and even more, it's a close look at the intense and very detail-driven aspects of how Seiko creates watches of all varieties. Click here to read "Inside The Manufacture: A Visit To Seiko Japan."

Like that original Lambert watch, it wouldn't be surprising if Rolex added one or two of these watches to their own collection – in particular, Marmet's and Dyhrenfurth's. We know they've bid, and continue to bid, on important, historical Rolex timepieces, including over the past week.

It's sporty enough to be your summer go-to thanks to its steel bracelet and 100 meters of water resistance, but it's also interesting enough to be a year-round everyday watch. If you've ever owned a Grand Seiko, then get ready for that magic hour ritual just around sunset when you catch the hands, indexes, and case reflecting light in the most mesmerizing ways.

As mentioned, the Day-Date's screen time is brief, but its scene is pivotal: In a celebratory moment backed by Darlene Love's "Christmas," we see Conway slip Hill a little extra money from the infamous Lufthansa Heist. We then cut to Hill at home with "the most expensive'' fake Christmas tree. As he hugs and kisses his wife, Karen (Lorraine Bracco), we get a quick close-up of this special Rolex Day-Date. If only it got the Scorsese freeze-frame.

There are few hills left for me to die on horologically – I gave up trying to get people to stop calling remontoires constant force escapements years ago – but here, I stand my ground, plant my flag, charge my cannons, fix my bayonets, and make animated character watches as the only true character watches, my rallying cry.

This year, Hublot and Berluti decided to use the Aluminio patina, characterized by its warm metallic hue. Incidentally, it is well worth pointing out that the Big Bang Unico Berluti Aluminio, a limited edition of 100 pieces, is not made of aluminum, a lightweight metal whose soft character would make it prone to scratches. It's made of satin-finished and polished titanium.

It ended up selling for $220,000, and that was considered a strong result for the sixth example to ever come to auction. It was the next example, the seventh to come to market, that would bring in roughly $100,000 more. The NOS condition likely contributed to the sale price. It sold for $343,750.

Caliber: Longines L888.6 Functions: Hours, minutes, secondsPower Reserve: 72 hoursWinding: AutomaticFrequency: 25,200 vphJewels: 21Chronometer Certified: COSCAdditional Details: Silicon balance spring (ISO 764)

But even with the overwhelming interest in the Bel Canto, it's not as simple as shifting a third of production to one mode. The watch is particularly constricted by parts, so it will be reliant on suppliers to help them ramp up production.

Christopher Ward told me that customers for the Classic will receive their watches just two months after launch, and the goal is to be at a consistent in-stock position by the end of February. Not all customers will be convinced and time will tell if that happens, but they seem to understand that they have a bit of an uphill battle to win back trust.

On the XPS, the lugs integrate seamlessly into the mid-case of the watch. There is a slight flattened step unlike on last year’s L.U.C 1860 (which had a very smooth and elegant appearance). That flat ridge is more noticeable from the top than the side angle below but it feels like a thoughtful way of showing that the case isn't just a cookie-cutter design.

To view the entire current selection of vintage watches available in the HODINKEE Shop, click here.Questions? Send us a note, or let us know in the comments. Want to sell your vintage watch through the HODINKEE Shop? Click here.Want to sell your pre-owned watch through Crown & Caliber? Click here.

I don't mind the Navy tie-in, but the logos at nine o'clock just seem a bit random and loud. At their best – and back in the day – these military watches have subtle nods to their purpose as a tool for service men and women. Perhaps even just a caseback engraving. But beyond the logos, the combination of colors, straps, and ceramic on these new Avengers do look cool and covert.

Griffon remembers DiCaprio’s other watch choice fondly. The third-act watch is an actual 18k gold TAG Heuer 2000 WN5141 with diamonds inlaid in the bezel, and a sapphire on the crown. According to Griffon, this (unlike the Daytona) was the real deal and cost about $40,000. The watch was released by TAG in the late ’90s and early 2000s as an upmarket play. It flopped then and remains forgotten today.

Heuer introduced the Monaco in 1969, one of its initial models to use its first automatic chronograph caliber 11. The blocky Monaco was the avant garde answer to the more traditional Carrera that used the same caliber, taken to by the likes of Stanley Kubrick, Sammy Davis Jr., and perhaps not many more. Thanks to McQueen and Le Mans, it's one of the watches most associated with a celebrity.

Lange's rebirth in the mid-'90s is well documented in the pages of horological history, and in the ensuing decades, the brand has emerged as a collector favorite. Expensive and exclusive, they aren't the type of watches you're likely to spot in the airport, so when Stephen Pulvirent had the opportunity to see five Pour le Mérite watches IRL he jumped at the chance.

The Nautilus ref. 5711 didn't become the kind of phenomenon it became for no reason, of course. The Nautilus in stainless steel is the ur-Nautilus: Gérald Genta's design as he originally intended it, or at least, more so than any other Nautilus in the current collection. And the waiting list, prior to the announcement that it had been discontinued, was running to the better part of a decade.

It's all about the 5513. When it comes to vintage watches, three handers are always the ones that sing to me. And the 5513 is the perfectly distilled essence of the rugged, purpose-built Submariner design, armed with simplicity and loads of vintage charm. - TanTan Wang, Merchandising Assistant

The thrill of the hunt "can be extremely fun, rewarding, and challenging at the same time," Boutros says, alternatively. "You can put together a diverse collection comprised of watches you'll never see again. We don't see a whole lot of collectors focused on the Day-Date, but they do exist. You'll find that some serious collectors love them and when they see something special, they jump on it."

Ok, I couldn’t do this story without pointing you back to this old-school HODINKEE review. Years later, the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue is still one of the great summer watches of the modern era. It’s functional, it’s easy to wear (especially for something of its size), and just looking at its blue and orange dial starts me dreaming about beach chairs and Mai Tais. If you somehow haven’t read this all-time review yet, check it out here.

I wore my Apple Watch Series 4 because I didn't have any other watch and knew very little about watches before joining the company. I was so scared to appear like a philistine with it. I thought, 'I definitely need to wear a watch though.'

I can't tell you which of the categories, but it is for sure the direction that we want to make ourselves recognized as the best. That's the plan. Now of course, it takes years, because it's not easy to develop movements in a short time. But because we have the expertise and because the ideas are already quite clear in the development teams, I think it can be a nice pace of introduction like I was able to do previously.

The new museum not only showcases many of the most important timepieces from Omega's history, including those owned and worn by world heads of state and U.S. presidents, but also offers immersive experiences meant to draw visitors into a world that goes beyond watches worn on the wrist and extends to Olympic sports, film, and television.

Other analysts have lower estimates for Apple Watch sales. One, who spoke off the record and would not divulge his Apple Watch sales estimate, said it was lower than the Swatch Group figure. But not much lower. Fitbit and Samsung are far behind Apple, with global shipments of 5.5 million and 5.3 million smartwatches last year, according to Strategy Analytics.

But Tudor already surprised us earlier this year with their Black Bay Pro, so as rumors swirled I tried to tune them out and carry the perspective that an "expectable" watch from a dependable brand probably won't be a bad thing. After seeing the watch, I can say it exceeded my (admittedly reserved) expectations by a wide margin.

Everyone starts someplace, and Reza started in a pretty good place. This small-sized Rolex Oyster Perpetual Datejust with gold bezel and hands was his very first good watch, given to him by his late father when he was 13 years old. He wore it daily until his wrists outgrew the diminutive size. Considering the rest of the collection, it only makes sense that Reza started with a Rolex.

EPC: This is a very exciting project for me because integrated bracelet watches are very different from the usual. You have to look at the product overall instead of just focusing on the dial. I don't think I've seen too many collaborations on integrated-bracelet types of watches, as well. It was a very interesting challenge for us.

So here's a rule: NATO straps read as casual. They just do. If you insist on wearing one in the evening, you may as well hold up a sign that says "Hi, I like watches, I know more than about them than you do, and I will make sure you know it once I'm done talking to you." You can take my advice or you can follow your inner style compass. I don't mind either way. Let's just keep it light :) –Malaika Crawford

Let me get ahead of this, I know this is a rare watch. It's estimated that approximately 400 examples were produced – 300 in yellow gold and 100 in rose gold. Among the watches on this list, this is going to be one of the hardest to find. The reference 2532, a sibling of the 2533 with subsidiary seconds, expands that production estimate by 200. We have 600 of these to hunt.

He's committed to producing just 24 pieces of the Mirage per year over the next 10 years – 12 each of the Sienna and Prussian Blue. His first subscription delivery will come in the first half of 2024, with the first standard delivery coming in the second half of 2024. The subscription cost is CHF 44,000, with prices steadily increasing for each standard delivery window after that.

Brand: Audemars PiguetModel: Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Limited Edition, 300 pcsDiameter: 41mmCase Material: TitaniumDial Color: SalmonIndexes: AppliedLume: YesWater Resistance: 20 metersStrap/Bracelet: Titanium

Nearly 20 years later our passion is stronger than ever. We live at a time when horology is enjoying unparalleled creative freedom, technical advancement, and social desirability. Additionally, there is untold knowledge resting at the fingertips of curious collectors through quality websites such as HODINKEE which will further educate and draw in a constantly growing base of horological enthusiasts.

Their work on the field has made them close friends, and has led them together down the rabbit hole of watch collecting. While a lot of athletes play a perpetual game of one-upmanship to see who can be first to wear the latest hype watch, these guys buy vintage Seikos for one another as gifts, they influence each other's high-dollar acquisitions, and they share personal stories together about what each of their watches means to them.

The interconnected histories of horology and motorsport is a tale as old as time – or is at least as old as motorsport itself, to be more accurate. In the age before the smartphone and pocket-sized digital devices became king, it was up to sophisticatedly designed tools like the humble and hardworking chronograph to be an accurate timekeeper in the world of racing and beyond.

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Did you know it's possible to use any traditional analog watch as a rudimentary compass? In this How-To piece, Jack breaks down the dos and don'ts of how it all works. Some watches – such as the Seiko Alpinist, the aforementioned Richard Mille RM 25-01, and the 1980s Porsche Design IWC Compass Watch – make it easier, but almost any analog watch display will do. Go ahead and commit this story to memory – it'll sure impress your hiking buddies next time you end up lost in the woods.

Piaget wanted something we could control from beginning to end, Borgeaud said. So Piaget began developing its own quartz caliber, eventually releasing the Piaget caliber 7P in 1976. Upon release, it became the world's thinnest quartz watch, just 3.1mm thick. Soon after came the 8P, an even smaller movement designed for women's watches.

The non-coated Formula 1 Chronograph retails at $4,700, while the three DLC-coated models retail at $4,900. The Oracle Red Bull Racing edition is priced at $5,450 but is not a limited edition. The models will be available progressively throughout the year, with the red models and the Red Bull Racing edition available in February.

Yes, 11,000 units. That number is so big that I'm not sure I've ever seen a larger shared production number for a limited edition. In the past, I've teased Omega for making 7,007 of some Bond-themed watch, but Seiko is going with the nice, round number of 11,000. That said...I kinda get it.

See which watch books @books_on_time is reading. Get your Don Draper (or Cole Pennington) on while perusing vintage watch ads with @adpatina. Look inside the collection of a former CIA Officer and amateur horologist, @watchesofespionage.

This watch (and its predecessor) was developed in the "Laboratorio de Idee," the research and development arm of Panerai focused on technical innovation. It took two years to develop the first LAB ID model, and its main draw was the use of components made of a completely new, low-friction composite which integrates a tantalum-based ceramic.

Some of the earliest Explorer reference 6610 examples feature a very subtle red depth rating (50m = 165ft) just below the word Explorer in the upper half of their dial, a style of marking seen in other Rolex sport watches from the period, including the GMT-Master reference. 6542, Datejusts, and even 34mm Oyster Perpetuals, reflecting marketing efforts to share their water-resistant characteristics more broadly during the early days of dive watches for commercial purchase.

Maybe I'll get to do that next year. Then there's the rest of Max Büsser's team, who are all some of the most genuine and kind people I deal with each year. Either way, between McDonnell and the kindness and vision of Max Büsser, and the genuine appreciation I have for his team, I now dream of their MB&amp;F LM Sequential.

Before I rant about rare some more, let's tie a bow on the last edition of "old Hodinkee's" favorite article of the week. The UG Tri-Compax with awful photos remains available as does TanTan's Grand Seiko pick (hey, BAL picking isn't for everyone, it's okay T2). Tennants Auctioneers will offer the Movado Ermeto for Cartier tomorrow. And for results, our Mido Multifort sold for $279 and the Parmigiani chronograph at Phillips soared past the "sucker" estimate, selling for CHF 19,050.

Easily the most demanding workshop involved attempting to pin the balance to a collet. The collet is at the center of the balance spring and is essentially a metal collar that holds the balance spring onto the balance staff. Traditionally it is held in place by threading the innermost curve of the balance spring through a horizontal tunnel in the collet, and then securing it in place with a tiny pin, which is friction fit in the same hole.

Baltic watches always feel more like a hat-tip to a given era and style rather than homage. In this case, the era is the 1960s and the style is the super-compressor. What's a super-compressor? Well, it's a reference to a patented case-sealing method developed in the '60s. It's since been colloquially defined by a watch with two crowns – one to wind, and the other to operate the internal bezel.

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Seinfeld debuted in 1989 with a truncated pilot/first season order of just five episodes. The suits at NBC didn't believe in the show about nothing – and clearly didn't see the future watch spotting value. Friends kicked off five years later, in 1994, and while the format and comedic stylings were vastly different from those of Seinfeld, there was a familiar and friendly (hehe) wristwatch to be found on Cox's wrist in her role as Monica Geller: The Breitling Chronomat … well, sort of.

Oh, and about the watches themselves: Slipping inside the store meant I was able to get my first hands-on impressions of the little hotties. And I have to say, they are just as exciting as I hoped they would be. Sure, they're light, basically plastic, and come fitted to a Velcro strap – but boy if they don't ooze charm by way of the classic Moonwatch design ethos.

The five "Rolexit" brands will participate in the digital Watches &amp; Wonders salon. They join 10 Richemont <a href="https://zzb.bz/Lnx6Ck" >link</a> Group brands, which have long anchored the show. Show organizers say they are continuing to recruit brands for the 2021 digital edition and hope to have as many as 50 brands participating.

But to the surprise of absolutely no one, the ink was barely dry on the press release before people asked for the watch in steel. Not only is steel quite a bit lighter and visually less loud than yellow gold, but it would also be more affordable. It seemed obvious that Vacheron would know right off the bat that people wanted a steel 222 more than a yellow-gold one. Why not just start with that?

Bonham's will be selling this example of the sought after Skipper in Hong Kong on the 12th of June, where it's being offered with an estimate of $30,000 to $60,000. I’ll be watching what happens with this one. You can too, right here.

As you know, and as I've covered over the years here, Hamilton is the watch brand of cinema. And this isn't about product placement. If you think back to films like Interstellar, where Christopher Nolan tasked the brand to make a unique watch that didn't exist in their collection for the film, you come to understand that the brand has a real connection to the industry in ways that become injected into the narrative of the very movies its watches appear in.

Malaika Crawford: We're at Basel, we've got to talk about art, right? Yes. Okay. What does art mean to you specifically? Given your background, you must have a pretty strong relationship with photography.

1:50The HODINKEE Magazine, Volume 5 26:52 The Watch That Came In From The Cold 1:19:00Where Men Win Glory: The Odyssey of Pat Tillman 1:21:00The Death of Truth 1:23:00Lizzo: NPR Music Tiny Desk Concert

Dimensions are almost identical, as well, at 39mm x 20mm in height (the original versions are 38.5mm) and the watch will be offered as a limited edition of 20 pieces in white gold, and 20 in red gold. Price at launch is $185,000.

The Cabaret name seemed to imply that the watch, which had a complex, faceted rectangular case, was intended to be a somewhat whimsical departure from the round cases in Lange's other collections. It came in a number of different versions, with the basic models coming in at 36.3mm x 25.9mm x 9.1mm. There were a number of different versions in addition to the basic model (time and big date) including an extremely charming moon-phase model.

The small seconds hand, at 6:00, runs off the one-minute tourbillon, which is visible (along with components of the striking mechanism) through the display back. An interesting technical note is that the two chronograph split seconds hands are made of lightweight aluminum – this reduces the energy necessary to run the chronograph and contributes to the watch's ability to offer a 60-hour power reserve.

Even though this Speedmaster Pilot is smaller in diameter than a Moonwatch, it is slightly thicker and longer. Make sure to try it before you buy it (a wise thing to do in any case; specifications on paper can be deceiving.)

For a mechanical watch in titanium, that's a pretty solid value. The Timex Marlin, the brand's most popular mechanical offering, retails for $249, so for a $100 premium, you're getting into the world of titanium cases – with a sapphire crystal, too. And of course, there's some clout in having a limited-edition collab watch, if you believe in that sort of thing (and many consumers do, just look at the streetwear industry).

For those who prefer a smaller case size and are undeterred by a quartz movement, there are a few of the diamond-clad 27mm ladies' watch renditions still in the shop (the blue dial with sunburst finish is killer, in my humble opinion).

As you've now heard from Jack, the Carrera was named after the legendary Carrera Panamericana, a grueling thousand-plus mile race from the northern to the southern border of Mexico along a highway of the same name. It ran for only four years before being ultimately canceled for safety concerns.